Chain-stitch shoe-sewing machine.



A. E. JERRAM.

CHAIN STITCH SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED SEPTUZ, 1910.

Patented Sept. 28, 1915 2 SHEETSSHEET I.

A. E. JERRAM. CHAIN STITCH SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT.2,I910.

' Patented Sept. 28

1915. 2 HEETSSHEET 2. a).

required for the stitch trap sears ARTHUR ERNEST JERRAM. 0F LEICESTER,ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY,'OF PATEBSON, NEWJERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.-

CHAIN-STITCH SHGE-SEWING' MACHINE.

Patented @ept. 22%, 1915.

Application filer) september 2, 1910. Serial No. 580,171.

To all whom. it may concern Be it known that I, ARTHUR E. Jnanair, asubject of the King of Great Britain. re siding at Leicester, in thecounty of Leicester, ,England, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Chain-Stitch Shoe-Sewing Machines; and 1 do herebydeclare'the following'to be a full, clear, and exact description of theinvention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which itappertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to stitch setting and thread controllingdevices particularly applicable to chain stitch sewing machines havinghooked needles.

The object of this invention is to insure a better and a more positivecontrol of the thread whereby only the amount of thread shall be pulledfrom the supply, and whereby the stitch shall be tightened moreeffectually than heretofore.

Accordingly, the invention comprises the provision for a chain stitchshoe sewing ma chine having a hooked needle and thread controllingdevices comprising a take-up and a thread locking device, with ayielding auxiliary take-up or thread check between them, of lockingmeans independent of the action of the thread for definitely determiningthe position of the yielding auxiliary take-up when thread for 'a.stitch is measured from the supply, in order that the yieldingresistance shall not be able to steal or cause an undue quantity ofthread to be measured off from'the supply as it would be had thisresistance to be overcome as heretofore by the pull of the thread itselfduring the thread measuring stroke of the take-up.

Another feature of the invention contemplates a construction of thecontrolling devices which comprise an abutment, that to stitch to be setagainst a predetermined resistance, is made yielding, and in conjunctionwith this there may be a locking device operatingat certain periods inthe cycle of operations to cause it to act as a stationary abutment, andthere may be further or adjustable means to limit the extent of yield.

A further feature comprises the employ ment in the operative mechanismfor the take-up of means, for examp1e,.a cam with 21 dwell in it, whichwill interrupt the thread pulling motion of thetake-up at the moment atwhich the lock is put on the sup- 1y to' enable a stitch settin pull tobe exerted on the thread.

With these objects in view, my invention cons sts in the stitch settingand thread controlling devices.hereinafter described, as defined in theclaims.

in the drawings accompanying-this ap plication I have illustrated apreferred form of my invention as applied to the wellknown Goodyear weltand turn machine which is illustrated and described in the patent toFrench and Meyer, No. 412,704,

October 8, 1889. It is to be understood, however, that my invention isclearly applicable to other types ofsewing machines, and that it can beotherwise embodied without departingfrom the spirit of my invention.

In the drawings, Figure l is a side elevation partly in section of thehead of the ma chine; Fig. 2 is a par tial front elevation of the headshown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the take-ups and theirmechanisms with the spring plunger locked; and

Fig. is a view of the parts shown in Fig. 3,

but with the spring plunger free.

Referring to the drawings, 1 indicates the standard of the machine, Qthedriving shaft which bears the cam wheels for operating the sewingmechanism, and which rotates in the direction indicated by the arrow inFig. 1, the cam wheel 3 with its cam slot t for actuating the threadfinger cam lever 5 being shownin full lines, and indicated in dottedlines is the cam slot 6 (provided with a dwell 7) and in which isengaged the cam roller 8 carried upon and operating the bell crank lever9 which through the link 10 operates the main take-up which comprises athread roll or truck 11 mounted on the end of an arm 12 which isfulcrumed by a sleeve 13. At 14 is indicated the cam operated levercontrolling the feed point or awl, which is not shown. Theneedle i5 isshown. in Fig. 1 as operating shoe 16, the needle being in retractedposition having pulled the loop of thread through the work, the threadbeing indicated by a dot-dash line.

T he parts above described are constructed and arranged to operate in awell-known manner substantially as set forth in the above mentionedpatent to French and Meyer, and further description thereof is I andauxiliary take-up is a large roll 22jourconsidered unnecessary.

The auxiliary take-up or thread check comprises a truck or roll 17mounted on the end of the short arm 18 which is attached to a rockshaft19 which passes through the sleeve 13 which supports the main take-up.

The rock shaft is extended through the sleeve, andcarries rigidly fixedto its end a lever arm 20 adapted to cotiperate with various stops inorder to limit and control the amotiint of the movement of the auxiliarytake-up. The auxiliary take-up is impelled in a downward directionbymeans of a spring 21 acting on the arm 20.

Goiiperating with the rolls of the take-up naled to the frame of themachine and around which the thread passes so that a shoe piece 23,which is adaptedto cotiperate with the large roll, may look or clamp thethread thereon. The shoe piece is mounted on one end of an elbow-lever24, the other end of said elbow-lever being connected through a toggle25 and 26 to some moving part'of the mechanism, preferably, as shown,

' the cam operated lever 14 which controls the chine frame.

feeding point or awl, and the cam path which controls the movement ofthe lever 14: may be given the necessary variation from that shown inthe French and Meyer patent to cause the shoe 23 to fall and rise toclamp and unclamp the thru d at the correct time in the cycle ofoperations, and still not interfere (With the engagement of the feedingpoint with the work. In order that the grip of the shoe piece on thethread may be adjusted, an eccentric adjustment is provided .at thejoint 27 of the toggle. Connected to the elbow lever 24 is an arm 28having a pin 29 which acts on the cam face 30 of the pivoted detent 31,which is adapted to engage and look a spring pressed plunger 32 which attimes forms an abutment for thearni 20 which is rigidly connected withthe auxiliary take-up roll 17 The detent is normally rocked about itspivot into locking engagement with the plunger 32 by means of a spring33, but-when the elbow lever 2. is-

rocked about its pivot to depress the shoe piece 23, the pin 29'ridesdown the cam face 30 and forces the lower end of the detent outwardandso releases the plunger 32.

I The lever arm 20 is adapted to engage with. its upper face the plunger32 and with which screws into the end of the enlarged recess: This thumbscrew is held in its adjusted position by means of the small lockingscrew 38. At the lower end of the reduced portion of the rod there is acollar 39 which is adapted to limit the downward. movement of theplunger under the action of the spring 36.

Opposite the reduced portion 35 of the plunger there is a projection 40on the machine frame into which is. threaded a screw 41 held inadjustable position by .means of the jam nut 42. This screw is adaptedto project more or less into the space left at the reduced part upon theplunger, and forms an abutment against which the collar 39 may strike tolimit the upward movement of the plunger 32 under the action of thelever arm 20 so that said upward movement is checked positively. I

Then the stitch is being set by the take-up 11, the threadpulling on theroll 17 acts through the arm 20 and the plunger 32 to compress thespring 36, whereby the stitch is set with a yielding pull; When theupward movement of the plunger 32 is checked by the screw -l1, the roll17 can no longer yield so thatthe stitch may be finally set with apositive pull. yielding movement of the plunger 32 and hence the amountthat the thread may be positively pulled in the final setting of thestitch can be varied by adjusting the screw 41. To prevent the springplun- 'ger 32 being displaced by the yielding of its spring during thethread measuring The amount of the stroke of the tak'e-up, the detent31, already described is provided, and this detent operates inconjunction with the shoe piece 23 so that as soon a: the thread islocked the plunger 32 is released by the retraction of machine, passesaround the large locking roll 22, under the thread truck or roll 17 ofthe. auxiliary take-up, over the thread truck or roll 11 of the maintake-up, and thence to the looper and-the WOIlL;

It has been found that when, as heretofore, the upward motion of thetake-up is continuous and the machine is running at a high speed, it isextremely difficult, owing to the inertia of the parts and'especiallyafter I they have becomesomewhat worn, to apply the shoe piece23 to thelarge roll 22'at the J precise moment necessary in orderto insure atethis the cycle of operations and so provides that the correct amount ofthread'be drawn from the supply.

The operation of the device is as follows: \Vhile the needle is beinglooped by the thread and while it is pulling the thread through thematerial,-the main take-up acts manner and the auxiliary takeunder thetension of the light coiiperates 1n the usual manner in its usual upacting spring 21 with the main take-up to control the thread.

After the needle has been thrust through the work and the loop drawnabout the shank of the needle, the rising of the take-up pulls threadfrom the supply 45 'in preparation for the next succeeding stitch. Inorder that there may be always an exactamount of thread measured fromthe supply, and that there may be no yielding means acting on the threadwhich would tend to steal 7 more thread, I have provided that the threadshall be given a positive pull during the time that it is pulled fromthe thread supply. As the main take-up 11 rises to pull the threadfromthe supply if), the abutment 44 rides over and depresses the stop l3,thus raising the arm 20 against the plunger 32 and positively lockingthe auxiliary takeup in the position shown in Fig. 3. The'fiat face ofthe abutment ll acts as a lock on i the stop 43 as the link 10 is-givenfurther supply l5, and

all of the spring pressed parts of the thread movement, and the plunger32 is locked against upward movement by the detent 31 engaging thecollar 39. 'During this part of the stitch forming operation the shoe 23is out of engagement with the roll '22 so.

may be drawn from the that the thread it will be seen that sincecontrolling mechanism are positively locked there is nothing to stealthread, and that an exact amount will always be drawn from the threadsupply. At the completion of this movement of the takeup 11 which hasmeasured the thread from the supply for the next stitch, the roller 8enters the dwell 7 in the cam slot (3. l' v hile the roller 8 is stillin the dwell 7 the continued turning of the shaft 2 actuates the lever14% sufficiently to clamp the shoe piece against and at the same time tocause the pin QSl-to ride over the cam face 30 releasing the detentfilfrom the partfit}; I After the thread thethread rollQQ-loeking thethread locked by the plunger but rises, lifting the plunger 32 andcompressing the spring 36, the continued compression of the spring 0 36giving an increasing tension to the thread as the stitch is'set in thework, and thus imitating the manner of the setting of a stitch by thehand of a skilled workman. The screw 41 may be adjusted .to engage thecollar- 39, so that, if desired, at the end of the stitch setting strokethe stitch may be set under a positive pull. It can be readily seen thatby momentarily interrupting the thread pulling motion of the take-up 11while the thread is being locked, anexact adjustment of the amountofthreadmeasured from the thread supply may be had. After the stitch hasbeen set, the take-up 11 falls,

- and the elbow lever 28 is retracted, releasing spring 21 during theretraction of the needle and during the first steps of the stitchforming operation after the needle has entered the next awl hole. Itwill be noted that the auxiliary take-up has a triple function. Duringthe retraction of the needle and the preliminary loop forming operationit performs the usual function of the auxiliary features of myin'iprovement may be used singly, the other parts of the combinationbeing omitted. For instance, the device which raises the auxiliarytake-up against the pressure of its spring 21 could be dis pensed withand the auxiliary take-up raised by the tension of the thread aloneagainst the plunger 32, which would thenact to set take-up as set forthin the French andthe stitch against. the increasing pressure of thespring 31, or again it would be possible to omit the dwell in the camand rely on the accuracy of the parts for drawing the correct amount ofthread from the supply, or other parts may be used singly as necessityor convenience may. dictate.

I .am aware of the patent to Briggs, No. 687,719, dated December 3,1901, which discloses a spring pressed device against which .the stitchis set and which is locked while thread is being pulled from the supply.This spring pressed device of the 'Briggs patent,-however, is not theequivalent of the auxiliary take-up referred to in" the following claimswhich is the ordinary auxiliary take-up which takes care of the slackthread givenup by the take-up and which in a machine of 'the Briggs typeexerts a slight tension on the thread during the op-- eration of thelooper and thread'finger.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, andspecifically described one form of mechanism in which it may beembodled, what I claim 1s:

1. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine,

having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a thread supply, atake-up, an auxiliary take-up cooperating with the takeup to control thethread given up by the takea p' and exerting a light strain on thethread as comparedwith the strain exerted in setting a stitch, and meansfor preventing the auxiliary take-up from acting during the timethethread is being pulled "'from the thread supply.

2. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a positively actuated take-up, ayielding auxiliary take- .having, in combination, stitch formingmechanism, a thread supply, a take-up hav- .ing a positive action on thethread, a yielding .au-xiliary take-up cotiperating with the take-up tocontrol the thread givenup by the take-up and exerting a light strain onthe thread as compared with the. strain exerted in'se tting a stitch,and means for locking the auxiliary take-up during the time the threadis being pulled from the thread supply, whereby the thread is relievedfromthe action of all yielding means .tending to steal thread.

4,." A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up having a positive actionon the-thread, a springpressed auxiliary take-up, and means inde pendentof the action of the thread and operating in timed relation to thestitch forming mechanism for retracting the auxiliary take-up agalnstthe tension of its spring during that part of the cycle of stitchforming operations when the thread is pulled from the thread supply.

.' 5. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, .in combination,stitch forming mechanism, a thread supply, atake-up, a spring-pressedauxiliarytake-up, and means for retracting and locking the,auxiliarytake-up against the tensi0n of its spring during apart of the stitchforming operation.

6. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine,

having, in combination, stitch formig mechanism, a thread supply, anintermittent thread locking device for lockingthe thread while thestitch is being set, a takeup, and means for arresting the thread takingmovement of the take-up while the lockmg means is being actuated to lockthe thread.

7. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine,

having, .in combination, stitch forming mechanism, a thread supply, atake-up having a thread pulling movement, a part of said movementserving to draw off thread from the thread supply for the next suc-'ceeding stitch and the succeeding part of said movement serving to setthe stitch, an intermittent thread locking device for locking the threadduring the stitch setting movement, and means for interrupting thethread pulling movement of the take-up while the thread locking means isbeing actuated to lock the thread, whereby the amount of thread to bedrawn ofl from the thread supply may be accurately measured.

8. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine,

having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism, a thread supply, anintermittent thread locking-device for locking the thread while thestitch is being set, a take-up and a cam for actuating the take-uphaving a dwell to interrupt the thread pulling stroke of the take-upwhile the locking dey vice is actuated to lock the thread.

9. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination,. stitch,forming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary take-up, amovable stop limiting the movement of said auxiliary take-up, means forlocking said stop while the thread is being pulled from the threadsupply,

means for unlocking said lockingme'ans, and means for interrupting thethread taking movement of the take-up while the unlock ing means isbeing ctuated. .7 10. A chain stitpii shoe sewing-machine, having incomb' ation, stitch forming having, in combination, stitch formingauxiliary take-up,

mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary take-up, means forlocking said auxiliary take-up while the thread is being pulled from thethread supply, means for unlocking said locking means, and means forinterrupting the thread taking movement of the take-up while theunlocking means is being actuated.

11. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, an intermittent thread. lockingdevice, a take-up, an auxiliary take-up, a movable abutment for limitingthe movement of the auxiliary takeup, means for locking said abutmentwhile the thread is being pulled from the thread supply, and means forunlocking said abutment when the intermittent thread locking means isactuated to lock the thread.

12. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an

auxiliary take-up, a spring resist-ing the first movement oi thiauxiliary take-up, and an. abutment arresting further movement of theauxiliary take-up",'said abutment being yieldingly held against movementby a spring during a part of the stitch forming opera? tion and beinglocked during the remainder of the stitch. forming operation. 7

13. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary ta ke-up,means for locking the auxiliary take-up while the thread is being pulledfrom the thread supply, yielding means for resisting the movement of theauxiliary take-up while the stitch is being set, and an t justable stopto limit the extent of the yield of said yielding means.

14. A chain stitch shoev sewing machine,

mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary take-up cooperatingwith the takeup to control the thread given up by the take-up andexerting a light strain on the thread as compared with the strainexerted in setting a stitcln'means for locking the auxiliary take-upwhile the thread is being pulled from the thread supply, yielding meansfor resisting the movement of the auxiliary-take-up while the stitch isbeing set, and-a stop to limit the extent of the yield of said yieldingmeans. i

15. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having. in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an an abutment limitingthe movement of the auxiliary take-up, means for locking said abutmentwhile the thread is being pulled from the thread supply, and yieldingmeans resisting the movement of said abutment with an increasingpressure during the setting of the stitch, whereby the thread may betaken from the thread having,

vited by a stop, whereby I supply with a positive pull and the stitchmay beset under an increasing tension.

16. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, in combination, stitch formingmechanism, a thread'supply, a takeup, an auxiliary take-up, an abutmentlimiting the movement for locking said abutment while the thread isbeing pulled from the thread supply, and yielding means resisting themovement 0 said abutment with an increasing pressure during thmsettingof the stitch, the extent of yield of said yielding means being limthefinal setting of the stitch may be made positive. 7

17. A chain stitch shoe sewingmachine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism. a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary takeup meansfor yieldingly holding the auxiliary take-up against the tension of thethread, means for locking said auxiliary take-up while the thread isbeing pulled from the thread supply comprising means for retracting saidauxiliary take-up against its yielding means and a spring-held abutment,means for locking said abutment while the thread is being pulled fromthe thread supply, and means for releasing said abutment'locking meanswhile the stitch is being set, whereby the auxiliary take-up may resistthe pull of the thread with a gradually increasing tension during thesetting of the stitch.

' 18. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, havin x' in combination,stitch forming mechanism, a thread supply, an intermittent th eadlocking device for locking the thread while the stitch is being set, atake-up, an auxiliary take-up. a spring-h ld movable abutment i'orarresting the movement o; the auxiliary take-up, means for locking saidabutment while the thread is being pulled from the thread supply. andmeans for releasing the abutment while the stitch is being set wherebythe stitch may be set against the tension of the spring-held abutment.

19. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, havin in combination.stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, an intermittentthrcad lockingdevice for locking the thread while the stitch is being set, a take-up,an auxiliary take-up. a spring-held movable abutment for arrestingtheanovemcnt of the auxiliary take-up. means for locking said abutmentwhile the thread is being pulled from the thread supply. means forreleasing the abutment while the stitch is being set, whereby the stitchmay be set against the tension of the spring-held abutment, and a stopfor limiting the movement of the-abut ment. whereby the final setting ofthe stitch may be made positive.

20. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitchforming mechof the auxiliary take-up, meansanism, a thread supply,-atake-up, an auxiliary take-up, a light spring normally holding saidauxiliary take-up, yielding means by which the auxiliary take-up isengaged near the extremity of its movement, and means for locking saidyielding means against movement during a part of the stitch form ingoperation.

21. A chainstitch shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, -lstitchforming mechanism, a-thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary take-up, aspring normally press ing against said auxiliary take-up, a secondspring acting on said auxiliary take-up only while the stitch is beingset, and means independent of the action of the thread and operating intimed relation to the stitch forming mechanism for holding the auxiliary take u'p retracted against the first spring during that part ofthe cycle of stitch forming operations when the thread is pulled fromthe thread supply,

22. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine, having, in .combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, an intermittent thread lockin devicefor locking the thread While the stitch'is being set, a take-up, an

auxiliary. take-up, a spring normally hold.

ing the auxiliary take-up against the tension of the thread, aspring-held movable abutment against which the auxiliary takeup isengaged near the extremity of its movement, means for holding theauxiliary take-up retracted against the action of the mechanism, athread supply, a take'up, a .yieldmg auxiliary take-up cooperating withthe take-up to control the thread given up by the take-up, and means forlocking the auxiliary take-up during a part of the cycle of the stitchforming operations comprising an abutment stationary during said part ofthe cycle and a member for positively holding the auxiliary take-upagainst said abutment.

. 24. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, 111 combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary take-upcooperating with the takeup to control the thread given up by thetake-up and exerting a light strain on the thread as compared with. thestrain exerted in setting a stitch, means for locking the auxiliarytake-up when the thread is being pulled from the thread supply, andyielding means acting on the auxiliary take-up to oii'er a graduallyincreasing resistanceto the pull of the thread when the stitch is set inthe work. i v

25. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a main takeup, mechanismforoperating the main takeup, a yielding auxiliary take-up cooperatingwith the take-up to control the thread given' up by the take-up-andexerting a light strain on the thread as compared with the strainexerted in setting astitch, and mechanism operated from the main take-upmechanism for locking the auxiliary take-up during a part. of the cycleof the stitch forming operations.

26. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, a thread supply, a take-up, an auxiliary take-upcooperating with'the takeup to control the thread given up by thetake-up and exerting a light strain on the thread as compared with thestrain exerted in setting a stitchmnd means for locking the auxiliarytake-up against movement in either direction during a part oiflthe cycleof the stitch forming operations.

ARTHUR ERNEST JERRAM. Witnesses E inaxou PYwnLn, Joi-rx Riemann LAW.

